Derry/Londonderry – The Vagabonds Arrive on the Foyle
Some cities welcome you exactly as you expected.
Others immediately tear up your carefully prepared plans and replace them with their own.
Derry belonged firmly to the second category.
For months it had appeared in our conversations, travel plans and historical research. We knew about the famous city walls, the Siege of Derry, Bloody Sunday and even the television phenomenon known as Derry Girls.
What we did not know was how quickly the city would win us over.
Travelling to Derry by Train
This time the journey itself was part of the adventure.
After reaching Belfast by bus, we boarded the train heading towards the north-west of Northern Ireland.
For years we had heard that this railway line was one of the most scenic routes in the British Isles.
The reputation is well deserved.
The landscape changes constantly. Coastlines, rolling hills, small towns and wide open spaces turn the journey into an experience rather than simply transportation.
By the time we arrived in Derry, we already knew this was going to be an interesting weekend.
First Steps Along the Foyle
Our hotel was located in the city centre, allowing us to begin exploring almost immediately.
The River Foyle instantly dominates the landscape.
Wide, calm and impressive, it gives the city a sense of scale that photographs rarely capture.
One of the first landmarks we visited was the Peace Bridge.
Today it is one of Derry’s most recognisable symbols. More than just a bridge, it represents the city’s journey from division towards reconciliation.
Standing there, it is difficult to imagine how different Derry looked only a few decades ago.
Foyle Maritime Festival
Our timing was no accident.
The city was hosting the Foyle Maritime Festival.
The waterfront was alive with activity.
Food stalls, music, ships, families and visitors created an atmosphere that felt more like a celebration than a tourist attraction.
Instead of the city from history books, we encountered a vibrant, modern and welcoming place.
That became our lasting memory of the first day.
The City of Stairs
Towards the end of the day we made an unexpected discovery.
Derry seems to have an endless supply of stairs.
For years we believed Budapest held the undisputed title of Europe’s City of Stairs.
After this trip, we are no longer entirely convinced.
Stairs lead everywhere.
Up to the walls.
Down from the walls.
Into parks.
Out of parks.
Towards viewpoints.
Away from viewpoints.
At times it felt as though the city planners received a bonus for every additional flight they could include.
Further research may be required.
An Encounter with Irish Weather
The first day treated us kindly.
The second reminded us that we were still standing on the edge of the Atlantic.
Rain arrived suddenly.
Then disappeared.
Then returned with renewed determination.
Walking along the city walls became a mixture of sightseeing, protecting camera equipment and attempting to maintain some degree of dignity.
The photographs look dramatic.
The experience was considerably wetter.
Only the Beginning
Later that evening, after our second soaking of the day, the Vagabonds finally returned to the hotel.
It was at that moment we discovered that our trousers had somehow remained dry.
Unfortunately, very little else had.
Even so, we already knew one thing.
Derry is not a city that can be understood during a single weekend.
This was only the beginning.
In the next parts of this series, we will explore the famous city walls, the Siege of 1689, the modern history of the city and the stories that make Derry one of Northern Ireland’s most fascinating destinations.
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